Tuesday, 5 April 2016

March 30, 2016

 March 30  aboard the Viking Emerald    Shibaozhai Temple

   It was raining at 6 a.m., about 12 C, very little wind with visibility of about half a kilometer. The ship had docked early in the morning and two other ships were docked.  The rain continued until just before the ship’s passengers were getting off the ship to visit the Shibaozhai Temple. Passengers from another ship had an earlier start and I took a picture of their parade of colourful open umbrellas as they walked along the floating dock to get to the road.
   To make use of the time before the 7 a.m. Tai chi class, we walked our circuit of decks 2 to 5 and stopped at the coffee station on Deck 5 for cappuccinos.  Again today the Observation Lounge was the location for tai chi.  Today’s 18 participants reviewed the moves that we learned over the past three days. There is no class on the final day since the groups are leaving the ship starting at 6:45 a.m., then 8:45 a.m. and 9 a.m.  By breakfast we had walked 1.5 miles.  After tai chi, we joined Jonna & Sharon for breakfast and were joined by Ken & Stephen.  The yogurt available at breakfast is made in the ship’s kitchen and tastes like a well made Greek yoghurt.
   At 8:45 the passengers from our ship, with our audio receivers in hand, left for the two km walk to the Shibaozhai Temple.  There were kiosks of goods - scarves, Tshirts, blouses, keychains, housecoats, dresses, children’s clothes, caps and baseball caps, as well as food vendors, on the dock, on the road from the dock to the crossroad and then in the main shopping street, this morning closed to traffic. There were even large pails with 35 cm long live fish, so that villagers could buy fresh fish.  The town has about 4,000 residents, but is part of the Chongqing district which has a population of more than 34 million.  Most of the 20 to 45 year olds leave their child in the smaller villages in the care of the child’s grandparents, while the parents live and work in larger centres like Shanghai or Beijing and send home money, only visiting a few weeks each year.
   To enter the Shibaozhai Temple, since the Three Gorges Dam raised the water 55 meters, a suspension bridge nicknamed the “Drunken bridge” because of  the amount of swaying from side to side, when more than 200 people are crossing it from both sides, is used. Shibaozhai Temple has an 80 meter high dike around it now that the village at the former foot of the temple’s cliff is underwater.  The temple was constructed in 1572, during the Qing Dynasty period, and is no longer used by Taoist and Buddhist monks.  When it was built people had to scale the steep cliff using handholds chiselled into to the rock face and later a chain to guide them. It was not until 1672 that the wooden pagoda was built with a 99 step wooden staircase reached by about 30 stones stairs to give worshipers a safer way of ascending to the Temple. In 1956, an additional three storey pagoda was added to the staircase pavilion. In the temple’s courtyard at the entrance to the temple is the Duck Well, where the legend is told that if a duck is dropped down the well, it would reappear swimming the Yangtze River at the bottom of the cliff.
 Inside the temple are statues of goddesses and mythical figures from Chinese legends including a famous 2,200 year old general, who was immortalized by a larger than life marble statue.  There are also statues of the Jade Emperor and his wife, the Queen of Heaven and their seven beautiful daughters.  Also beside the statues are more vendors, making me think of the Christian New Testament story about vendors in a temple. Then inside the temple is the Rice Flowing Well. Legend maintains that every day enough rice would flow out of the small well hole to feed the monks that lived in the temple and their guests. One day a greedy monk chiseled a bigger hole in the rock, thinking he would get more rice. However, it caused the rice flow to cease forever. This section is showcased to remind people not to be too greedy.
   From the top of the temple cliff, there is a view of the Yangtze River in all directions since the temple is now an island. But today it is misty and the visibility is about three km.  Photos of subjects in the distance are not clear.  We heard music from the shore and were told that when someone dies their family plays loud music as part of the mourning process and lights firecrackers.  A few days ago, while cruising in the afternoon, we noticed some fireworks being exploded, so this could be the explanation. There was over an hour of free time to further explore the temple, take photos or meander back to the ship through the vendor cries of “Hello”, “Tshirts” and “Cheap”.  The Chinese yuan currency cash is accepted and it best to have exact change, since there is a problem with counterfeit money in China. The nickname for these markets selling to tourists is the “Hello Market” or the “Maybe Later Market”.  On the town side of the suspension bridge there are bronze heads of the Chinese zodiac signs.  We took our pictures with our zodiac sign.
    Once back at the ship, before lunch, there was the disembarkation meeting to give each group details for departure from the ship in Chongqing (which is 278 km away from Shibaozhai Temple) in the morning and the flight to Xi’an. In the presentation, Ben, the Program Director mentioned that Chongqing is known as “Fog City”.   The fog this afternoon will prepare us for fog in Chongqing tomorrow.
    The buffet lunch had several salads, an onion soup with a beef base, sausages and fruit – pineapple, mango watermelon, cantaloupe, red grapes and blueberries in separate bowls.  There was also pumpkin pie and mango ice cream for dessert.  We sat with Lorraine and Gary for lunch.  Then we went walking in the inside corridors as the sundeck carpeting was still quite soggy.  There temperature was about 17 and the cloud did allow the sun to burn off the thin fog.  We measured 4 miles by 2 when we took a tour of the ship’s bridge where three officers were present guiding the ship as the river guide led the 10 minute tour.
   We went back to the stateroom to start to pack and then walked some more before going to a 30 minute Chinese Dumpling making presentation.  We stopped for a coffee and then some more walking before going to the presentation “China Today”.  The pedometer shows 4.75 miles so far today. After the presentation the sun was trying to break through the cloud and managed for a few minutes glowing red, before being covered again by clouds.
     There was the Captain’s Cocktail Party for the final day on the Yangtze River.  Besides drinks there was a raffle to benefit the Viking River Cruises sponsored schools.
    Following the cocktail party was the “Farewell” Dinner. We sat with Ed and Gail and Karen and Robert.
    After dinner, we went to the Emerald Lounge for a few dances before returning to the stateroom to pack and put out our luggage in the hall for 1 a.m. to be transferred to the airport for our early morning start.
Total distance walked today was 5.75 miles.










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